A Tiger's Eye View of Oolong TeaThe process by which oolong tea is made falls between those of black tea and green tea, not as oxidized as black tea, but more oxidized than green tea. The tea leaves are allowed to oxidize for two or three days, then they are heated to stop oxidization. Oolong tea, pronounced wu-long in Chinese, can be made from any variety of Camellia sinensis anywhere tea is produced. Oolong tea is grown in a wide variety of regions, at variable elevations, and is harvested at different seasons. It is produced from a wide range of tea bush varieties. Production of the classic oolong teas takes place only on the island of Taiwan and in the Fujian and Guangdong provinces of China. The distinctive flavor and character of each tea is dependent not only on growing and variety variables but on the method of production, which varies from region to region. Some oolongs are more oxidized than others. One of my favorite oolongs is a minimally oxidized one that is on the "green tea" side of the oolong spectrum. It is highly aromatic, very flavorful, and very soothing. I like it before bed and after supper. It is definitely not ascetic, as I describe most green teas. Another of my favorite oolongs - a moderately oxidized one - is more amber than green and has a more assertive taste; it's perfect in the late afternoon. To my tiger palate, oolong tea isn’t has heavy or sweet as black tea, but it doesn’t taste as grassy as green or white tea. Oolong leaves can be rolled like gunpowder tea. The leaves unfurl during brewing. Some oolongs, such as the rare Wen Shan Bao Zhong, which is grown in the mountains of Taiwan, are not rolled at all. This very lightly oxidized tea makes an exquisite brew and is very expensive but worth the cost. Though usually light, oolong can also be very fragrant, sweet, fragrant, and aromatic, as is my favorite, Jade Oolong, a Tung-Ting (Dong Ding) style oolong from Nantou, Taiwan, has rolled leaves that are oxidized only about 18%. Another favorite of mine – Iron Goddess of Mercy, a classic Chinese Ti Kwan Yin style called Anxi Tae Guan Yin in Chinese, has rolled leaves, too, and is more oxidized and less sweet than Jade Oolong, flavorful and aromatic with lots of flavor. The Jade Oolong and Iron Goddess of Mercy are available at more moderate - but still very costly to the uninitiated - prices. As a tea-quaffing tiger, I find that my tea is worth what I spend on it. For everyday drinking, I brew moderately priced teas and re-infuse the leaves at least a few times, enjoying the way the character of the infusion changes with each brewing. I may drink these teas from large stoneware mugs or from small tea bowls. On the other hand, when I drink a rare, exquisite tea, I brew it in a small Xi Ying clay pot and drink it from a small tea bowl, brewing again and again. Enjoyed in that manner - repeatedly brewing the leaves - the tea pays for itself in pleasure. Taiwan Oolong TeaTaiwan produces many of the same teas that are produced in the Fujian Province of mainland China.
Chinese Oolong TeaThe Fujian Province produces a wide variety of traditional and new-style oolong teas. The Ti Kuan Yin type tea can be highly variable. Inexpensive ones can produce satisfying brews; higher quality ones can be exquisite. Some of these teas are sold under the names, Iron Goddess of Mercy and Iron Buddha. Other traditional teas include the famous Da Hong Pao (Big Red Robe) and Si Da Ming Cong type teas sold under a variety of names such as Bai Ji Guan - white cockscomb and Shui Jin Gul - golden marine turtle. The region also produces some very dark oolongs such as Rou Gui, an aromatic, spicy, dark tea known as "Cinnamon" and the dark Shui Hsien (Water Sprite) that may be grown in other tea-growing areas as well. Newer tea types such as Jin Fo (Golden Buddha) and Huang Mei Gi (Yellow Rose) are for those who want a lighter taste. Other provinces such as Guangdong Province produce tea, but their offerings seem to be less widely available on a commercial scale. |